11 March 2025 – The Exo Mani

Miles driven today = 58

Total Miles to date = 1,851

We are on the Mani!  The middle of the three downwards pointing fingers of the Peloponnese.  There are no campsites down here and supermarkets are equally scarce so we did a food shop before leaving Messini and also popped in at Camping Fare on the outskirts of Kalamata to make sure our waste tanks were empty and fresh water tank full before heading into one of the most notorious areas of Greece.

The Exo Mani, or Outer Mani is the coastal area which stretches from Kalamata south to the bay we are staying on tonight near Oitylo.  We initially climbed steeply into the foothills of the Taygetus mountains and through the town of Kampos before stopping at a viewpoint from where we could see along the coastline with the town of Kardamyli below us.

We dropped down into Kardamyli and initially struggled to find somewhere to park until we were almost through and out the other side.  But we managed to squeeze into a sloping parking space looking down over a small bay to the south of the town.

Believe it or not this is the newer part of Kardamyli down by the seafront. 

Lisa has been here before. She had a holiday on the Mani nearly 30 years ago and she thinks they might have stayed in Kardamyli although she wasn’t sure exactly where.  But there were a few places we drove through today which gave her deja-vu moments.

It’s certainly a very attractive little town with lots of traditional stone built houses.

We took an uphill path which led us to Old Kardamyli.

The Maniots had a reputation for being ferocious fighters.  When they weren’t repelling common enemies like the Ottomans or other invaders from overseas they were constantly fighting amongst themselves and the blood feuds which existed between the various clan lasted for many years.

They therefore built these tower houses to defend themselves against their enemies.  When a feud was declared between clans the men would confine themselves to the towers and attack their foe from there.  Women on the other hand were free to go about their daily lives, bringing food to their menfolk in the towers.  At harvest time a truce would be called but once the harvest was gathered the feud would recommence.  A bit like the famous football match between the English and German soldiers in No Man’s Land on Christmas Day in World War I.

Lisa found some wild sage.  She carefully brought it back to the van, at which point I promptly sat on it.  She wasn’t best pleased but I do have a very fragrant bottom now.

The van was parked at a rather jaunty angle which wasn’t conducive to happy eating so we drove on a few kilometres to somewhere flatter where we could park up with a view while we ate our lunch.

Then we drove on to Stoupa and we nearly got ourselves stuck trying to find somewhere to park, so we baled out and also bypassed Agios Nikolaos before climbing back up into the hills.

I’ve been very impressed with the road today.  There have been a few lumps and bumps and I can’t even start to count the number of hairpin bends we have negotiated but on the whole the surface has been surprisingly smooth.  And it’s also been wide enough as well.  There were only a few occasions where we passed through villages with their tiny churches which obviously weren’t laid out with large motorhomes and cement lorries meeting head on in mind.  But we only had one relatively narrow scrape and survived intact.

We stopped for a quick look at Lagkada.  I’m fairly certain that most of the buildings here are genuine and have been renovated but there are other areas where lots of holiday homes have been built to look traditional and it’s often very difficult to determine between the authentic and the imitation.

We dropped back down to sea level again for tonight’s park up at Karavostasi.  Another really terrible choice of view from the windscreen.  We really must do better!

Coming down the hill it almost felt as though we were in a holding pattern approaching Heathrow Airport with sweeping 180 degree turns and the engine braking to slow our descent.

At the top of the hill is Oitylo, which historically was the capital of the Mani.  Apparently the Maniots used to run a slave trade from here, selling Turks to the Venetians and Venetians to the Turks.  There’s a castle and a Monastery up there somewhere but both seemed pretty inaccessible so we’ve not bothered.

Just along the way is an example of two traditional homes which have been renovated either side of a fixer-upper in the middle.

With the lack of campsites we are having another taverna stopover and are camped in the car park for Taverna O Faros.  Once again the deal here is that we can stay for free if we eat at the taverna.  We were the only customers.  Mein Host set up an electric fire for us despite the fact it was still 20 degrees outside. 

We had a proper blow out.  Without doubt our best meal out of the trip so far.  We shared a huge bowl of fish soup, grilled filleted sardines and prawn saganaki, which was actually 4 massive crevettes served up with tomato sauce and feta.

There was also a plate of greens, which were described as “Greek Vitamins”, which we got for free as they were missed off the original order and likewise a complimentary plate of pear and orange in honey and cinnamon.  We were introduced to the owners wife, who is also the chef, and their son, Gregory, so I left a decent tip and was promptly presented with a 50ml bottle of wine to take back to the van.  We’d already drunk 2!

Tomorrow we go around the Bay and where the main road heads over the hill towards Yithio on the East coast, we continue round the headland and South into the real badlands of the Mesa Mani.  I’ve no idea if we will have any data signal down there so if I don't get to post anything tomorrow please leave it a day or two before search parties are summoned.

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