13 September 2023 - Kielder

Miles driven today = 65

Total Miles to date = 461

It was an autumnally chilly 9 degrees outside when I got up to put the kettle on this morning.  We seem to have gone from being too warm under our duvet to having to add extra blankets within the space of just a few days.  We haven’t yet succumbed to popping the heating on in the van just yet but Winter is definitely coming and we were very grateful that the shower blocks at The Barn at Beal were warm.

Although our journey today has been generally southward, the majority of it has been driven on the most wonderfully winding Scottish A and B roads.  We passed through Kelso and Jedburgh before entering the Cheviots, crossing the border again and approaching Kielder along roads which are merely single track with passing places.

We had considered staying in Kielder for a couple of nights and perhaps cycling the 26 mile Lakeside Way around Kielder Water but some rather unpromising weather forecasts and limited availability at the campsite we want to stay at near Hadrian’s Wall have dictated we are only staying here for the one night.

We have absolutely no phone signal or data here and we completely forgot to download the OS maps before we left the coast this morning.  So first job was to head up the hill to Kielder Castle, which was once a hunting lodge for the Duke of Northumberland but nowadays serves as an Information Centre and CafĂ©.  There we were able to pick up some maps of the local walking routes.

We chose to follow the green way-markers of the Duchess Trail.  A 2 mile route which was apparently so named as it was the Duchess’ favourite walk.

It starts by following the banks of the Kielder Burn upstream for a way.

It then leads across a meadow before crossing the Burn via this lovely old bridge.

The trail then winds its way through a mixture of pine and deciduous woodland.

Lisa had a slight ulterior motive for coming to Kielder.  With the rain we have had over the last few days she was hopeful of doing a bit of foraging and very soon we were heading off-piste.  Fairly quickly we had managed to nab ourselves this impressive haul of Hedgehog Mushrooms.

We were feeling rather pleased with our efforts when all of a sudden we stumbled across the motherload of hedgehogs stretching down the bank as far as we could see.  There were far too many for us to pick or use ourselves so we left the majority for other lucky souls to harvest.

Hedgehog Mushrooms are very easy to identify because they have spines instead of gills.  They are very meaty and amongst the tastiest mushrooms to be found in the UK.  They also don’t seem to attract bugs and wild animals in the way that many other edible mushrooms do so you don’t have to worry so much about getting extra maggoty protein in your mushroom stroganoff.  If you wanted to buy a kilogram of these beauties at Borough Market in London they would set you back at least £50.

The forest floor was also carpeted with Wood Sorrel which has a mild lemony flavour.  Very tasty in salads.

Lisa, Queen of the Forest with our fungal haul.

On our way back to the van we came across this stone maze called “Minotaur”.

We found our way to the middle.  Now how do we escape?!

We are spending the night in the Car Park at the Anglers’ Arms.  They charge £10 to stay the night whether you eat here or not.  They also charge a tenner to stay in the Castle Car Park and in retrospect that would have probably been a better option.  The menu here is fairly limited but there don’t appear to be too many alternatives locally.  And they do have wi-fi, although it doesn’t extend to the car park so it’s going to be at least tomorrow before I can get this online. 

Comments

Popular posts from this blog