22 September 2022 – Lugo and on to the Galician coast

Miles driven today = 154

Total Miles to date = 1,486

We sat outside for a while before we went to bed last night.  There was no moon and almost zero light pollution.  Lisa reckoned it was the clearest night sky she had seen since we were on safari in Zimbabwe a few years ago and I certainly couldn't disagree.

Having made use of their free car park we thought we would put something back into the Las Medulas economy by buying breakfast at one of the tavernas but at a little after 9am everywhere was still very much cerrado so we wriggled our way back to the A6 and continued our westward journey.

We all know that Motorway services are notorious in the UK for fleecing us for sub-standard fair and I anticipated similar here when we stopped for breakfast.  So it was a pleasant surprise to have 2 cups of cafe con leche with free cake and a croissant big enough for 2 for a grand total €4, all served in pristine surroundings with a courteous smile.  Happy Eater take note!

On we pushed, the A6 crossing some impressive viaducts and burrowing through mountains to whisk us on our way, although it was blocked at one point and we were diverted onto the more contour hugging N-VI for several kilometres.

We had decided that it was time to head back to the coast, probably somewhere around A Coruna, but that was a good 3 hours of solid driving away so we decided to stop roughly half way in Lugo.  However, just before we got there the blue skies disappeared and low cloud settled in to give the town a very autumnal feel.

We had hoped to park at a free aire but the circus was in town, taking up the space usually reserved for motorhomes, so we ended up a little further away from the town centre in a car park opposite the local police HQ.

Lugo, it has to be said, is a pretty grubby and non-descript place but it does have one major redeeming feature.  It boasts what is reckoned to be the best preserved Roman defensive structure anywhere in the World.  It's Roman wall still completely encircles the old town.

We entered via the Santiago Gate which leads to a plaza in front of the Cathedral.

We then climbed the steps up to the ramparts and walked the 2.5km circuit.  As we did so the sun burnt back the clouds and the blue skies returned.

There are 71 of these semicircular towers around the wall.  Apparantly each had a defensive structure built on top of the wall, although none of these survive today.

By the time we finished our lap it was 1pm so we had lunch in a cafe just outside another of the main entrance gates.  I was still very jealous of Lisa's octopus the other evening so I couldn't resist having some of my own even if it was the most expensive thing on the menu.  It wasn't as good.  The jealousy remains.

So the decision was made that we would indeed continue to the coast and we stopped at another service station to top up on deisel and Ad-blue.  This was the second time we have topped up in Spain and on both occassions I have only been charged roughly 90% of what I was expecting to pay based on what was showing on the pump.  When I got back to the van there was an English family admiring her voluptuous curves.  They have a house locally so I asked them what the deal was and it seems all non-Spaniards get a tax break, making fuel even cheaper.  Double Bonus!

We decided to push on past A Coruna.  There are a number of small places along the coast here which I had earmarked as possibles for a visit so we have ended up at Camping Os Delfins at Playa De Baldayo near Arnados.  It's a small family run site.  €22.60 per night including hook up.

The main beach here is another fantastic stretch of golden sand.

There is also this tiny little beach among a number of other small coves.

Today has been the biggest driving day we've had since we've got to Spain and we've been on the move every day since we crossed the border so it seems an ideal place to take a short break.  The awning is out and hopefully tomorrow the bikes will make an appearance too.

Buenos Noches!

23 September 2022 - Downtime at Playa De Baldayo