27 February 2024 – Sorrento

Miles driven today = 0

Total Miles to date = 1,741

Having confirmed that we will be staying here at Camping Zeus for a third night we decided to take ourselves off for a day trip to Sorrento, legendary home of the Sirens who tempted Ulysses across the Sea.

I was anticipating a train ride enhanced by sunlit vistas across the Bay of Naples but in reality all we really got was 40 minutes of tunnels and the rear view of some rather tatty buildings.  We had to wait until we reached our destination for the views I was hoping for.

As we left the station we were greeted by this impressive piece of wall art on a neighbouring building.  No idea who the subject is, although does have more than a passing resemblence to Daniel Ratcliffe.

Sorrento is built on either side of a steep-sided gorge which provided the old town with protection from potential intruders around two of its sides.  

We found our way to the main Piazza Tasso, named after the local 16th Century poet whose family still run a restaurant here, and started to explore the old quarters.

The 12th Century Campanile (Bell Tower)

The Church of San Francisco has some peaceful cloisters.

This 14th Century church had an interestingly tiled dome.

Also frescoes of cherubs above its main entrance.

Looking back across the bay toward Vesuvius.

For all its charms, Sorrento is basically a tourist resort and a lot of it was very much still shut for the winter months.  It’s famed for two things.  One is it’s marquetry and I have a coaster which my daughter Lucy brought back from here a few years ago.  There is a marquetry museum which we were interested in having a look around but the doors were very much locked there too.  

We happened across St Paul’s Church and Convent which houses a marquetry school and also had a free exhibition of the craft.

Lisa was quite taken by the symmetry of this table.

But there were also a number of large examples of landscapes and other pictures created using the different colours of inlaid wood.

We spotted these panels on the main doors of the Cathedral as we wandered past.  Spot the traditionally attired hooded gentleman who looks as though he’s about to go around burning a few crosses.

The other thing that is produced around here is Limoncello and most of the tourist shops which were open were selling it by the bucket load.

We popped into this place and sampled their wares before buying ourselves a litre bottle.

It was getting on towards lunchtime so we made our way down the ancient steps to the Marina Grande.

We wandered along the short stretch of seafront.  It was very quiet with just a few locals around and even fewer tourists, most of whom seemed to be American, surprisingly.

A couple of eateries were open so we sat ourselves down at the Taverna Azzura.  It was probably 16 degrees outside and we were sat inside one of those clear plastic gazebo things that seafront restaurants use to increase their covered seating space.  The waiter brought over a patio heater, like the ones we have at the Bay Horse back home for when temperatures are considerably colder, and fired it up right next to us.  I called him back over and said we don’t need it and he misunderstood me thinking I wanted him to turn it up.  “No mate, we’re British, we’re used to a bit of a chill in February.  Turn it off!”. 

We both went for the Seafood Linguine, which was really good, but a little disappointingly a lot of the clams were resolutely closed.  We mentioned this to our waiter friend when he asked if everything was OK and he said “Don’t worry, I take care of you”.

Once he had cleared the plates away he came out with another full plate of clams on the house to compensate, bless him!  

We loitered for a while in order to polish off the full litre carafe of wine I had inadvertently ordered, before making our way back up the steps to the main part of town.

When we got back to the train station we had half an hour to spare.  Plenty of time for a spot of leating I thought.  But no!  Denied!  It seems leating is frowned upon here, especially in public.  Who knew. 

28 February 2024 - Salerno