28 February 2025 – Western Lefkada
Miles
driven today = 18
Total Miles
to date = 1,409
We’ve stayed in some pretty incredible places on our van travels over the years. The clifftop lighthouses at Fisterra in Spain and the Butt of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides spring immediately to mind but I think today we might just have trumped them all.
We are sat on the cliffs at Porto Katsiki, just a short distance from the most Southerly point on Lefkada. We can hear the waves on the beach, the water is just impossibly blue and yesterday’s rain is just a distant memory with almost wall to wall sunshine.
It was a fairly leisurely start to the day. We sat in bed with our morning cuppa and watched the waves as a lone detectorist scanned the sand for any any treasure uncovered by the storm.
We didn’t really get to see much of the resort yesterday before the rain set in so we had a quick explore before departing. It’s a tiny place really with just a few guest houses and tavernas, some of which are in the process of being readied for the holiday season.
Our journey today might have been less than 20 miles but it still took us at least an hour to complete. The roads are deemed to be wide enough to have a white line down the middle but overhanging trees and subsiding verges resulted in almost continuous chicanery and through some of the villages we only scraped past oncoming traffic with an inch to spare either side. The last 4km was entirely single track with vertiginous drop offs but thankfully we didn’t meet anything coming the other way.
Once parked up we made our way down to the beach.
Access is via a crumbling staircase. The rock arch which supports it looks as though it could collapse at any minute.
We had the entire beach completely to ourselves. Shoes and socks were quickly dispensed with.
There was still quite a heavy surf resulting from yesterday’s storm.
But we still managed a quick paddle.
You can just about make out the van in its lofty clifftop perch.
Most impressive of all, we didn’t see a single scrap of litter.
Back up the rickety stairs.
At the end of the carpark is another set of steps leading to a rocky headland but these are now so badly eroded away that the path has been closed for safety reasons.
But you can have a peak back along the coast to the North from there.
Here you can make out Kefalonia, which is the next island in the Ionian chain and was the setting for Louis de Bernieres’ book “Captain Corelli’s Mandolin”, which was subsequently made into a film starring Nicholas Cage.
I was pretty chuffed with myself getting the van down here unscathed, only to find a gigantic 8+ metre A Class with a 4 metre trailer already parked here. I have absolutely no idea how they got round some of the hairpin bends but they are gone now along with everybody else other than one Italian van at the far end of the car park. It’s a bank holiday weekend in Greece for “Clean Monday” so we think it may get a lot busier here tomorrow and an earlier start may be in order to avoid meeting traffic coming the other way as we clamber our way out of here and head for the other side of the island.
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