8 February 2024 – Avignon
Miles driven today = 54
Total Miles to date = 810
It was another early start this morning. Reception at the campsite we had our eyes on in Avignon shuts up shop between 11:30am and 2pm so, if at all possible, we wanted to make sure we were all parked up before they disappeared on their extended lunchbreak. Once we had escaped the seemingly endless series of speedhumps coming out of Montelimar we rejoined our old friend the N7 past Lapalud. Then, in order to avoid Orange, we crossed the Rhone via the N86. Shortly after doing so Google Maps threw one of its occasional wobbles and diverted us down a rather bumpy D road which took us through the alarmingly narrow streets of the riverside village of St-Etienne-des Sorts before joining us back onto our originally planned route towards Avignon where we were all set up at our chosen campsite and ready to explore by 11am.
First stop was the famous bridge which we all learnt to sing about in our elementary French Lessons. The Pont St Benezet, to give it its proper name, was built in the 12th Century and at the time was the only crossing of the Rhone between Lyon and the Sea. It originally had 22 arches but only the four nearest the town survived a flood in 1668 which washed the rest away.
Benezet was an illiterate Shepherd who convinced the Bishop that he had a vision to build a stone bridge across the Rhone. Not only did the bridge get built but he ended up becoming the patron Saint of bridge builders to boot. There is a small chapel on the bridge which was built to house his relics.
And as for that song, well by all accounts the only singing and dancing that took place wouldn’t have been on the bridge itself but in a seedy tavern beneath its arches and the song would have originally had the lyrics “Sous (under) le Pont D’Avignon” when it was written some 500 years ago.
We had bought a combined ticket for the bridge and the Palais des Papes, entrance for the latter of which was 1pm so we headed past the Cathedral of Notre Dame des Doms en-route to a quick Café lunch first.
The Papal Palace was built in the 14th Century, at the time of the “Great Schism” when the Catholic Church tore itself apart and for a period of 70 years the Papal seat moved from Rome to Avignon.
Very little of the opulently sumptuous interiors remain but we were given handy “histopads” which gave loads of interesting information and showed CGI mock ups of how the various rooms are thought to have looked when the 7 different Popes were in residence.
Here we are looking down onto the Palace Gardens which have been recreated as they may have looked back in the day.
The huge kitchens which supplied the lavish banquets had enormous central fireplaces with these chimneys towering above to allow smoke and cooking smells to escape.
These are original tiles dating from the 14th Century.
Photography was banned in the few areas where paintings have survived but I did get a sneaky picture of this scene of people collecting fish from a pond.
A few sculptures also survive.
Check out the look on the face of the guy on the left here. Priceless!
The Great Chapel where the investiture of the Popes would have taken place.
An ornate doorway leading into the Great Chapel.
We clambered up the steep stone stairs to the roof terrace.
And then back down this ceremonial staircase to end our tour.
It was still only a little after 2pm so we decided to have a wander and see what the rest of this lovely old town has to offer. This building on Palace Square has variously been the Town Hall, a barracks for the gendarmerie and a Fire Station. It’s a boutique hotel nowadays, although it currently seems to be closed.
In a familiar theme, the Hotel de Ville has been converted to hold the current Town Hall.
St Peter’s Basilica, with its octagonal bell tower, dates from 1385.
It has a very grand interior with several side chapels and Renaissance paintings. To the left in a glass case are the original hat and vestments of Cardinal de Pres. I’d never heard of the chap but he died in 1361 so if they are the genuine article they’ve stood the test of time pretty well.
There was also this massive tapestry.
And of course the now seemingly obligatory Nativity Scene.
The Market Halls were closed for the day but they did have this interesting living Plant Wall.
In the 14th century a channel was dug to divert water from the river along La Rue des Teinturiers (Street of the Dyers).
23 Water Wheels were then used to provide the power to wash, rinse and dye silk and other materials. Only 4 of the wheels survive and sadly none of them are in working order anymore.
We strolled on around some of the town’s back alleys. I’m glad we didn’t try to drive the van down this one!
On the way back we stopped off for a beer in the shadow of the Medieval Tour St Jean. A relaxing end to another busy day of sightseeing, apart from the wasp which bothered us at one point. A wasp! In February!
Tonight we have made use of our 2024 ACSI discount card for the first time. Camping Bagatelle is on the Isle de la Barthelasse, an elongated island in the middle of the Rhone. It’s very handy for the city. The sanitation block could do with an update but the ACSI discounted rate is only €19 plus tourist tax and that includes (6 amp) hook up. We are lined up between 2 other Dethleffs and we are the baby of the trio with the other 2 both being double axled A Class monsters. The people in the French van on the left even have their pet cat on board!
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